ARTS THREAD visits Indigo Paris for the Fashion edition this February and speaks to the exhibitors about the show and the key trends in pattern and colour and texture.
As for trends, there seems to be a strong polarisation between those seeking catwalk trends and those who ask for designs that arenotfrom the catwalk.
Celine-inspired brushstrokes: Inspired by the Celine spring/summer 2014 collection – painterly brushstrokes in bright or muted brights, often taken smaller scale than the overlarge catwalk originals. A trend seen at Westcott Designs, Kellergordon, The Colorfield, Karolina York, Baxter Fawcett.
Blues: All shoes of blue are important, from soft cornflower to deepest indigo and the most vibrant cobalt tones. Usually on a white ground, but also used with black and white together and featuring on all styles of pattern, but especially tie-dye blurs, aztec geometrics and vintage florals. As noted by Printfresh, Karolina York, Baxter Fawcett, Whiston and Wright.
Black and White: Still a key mood for the design teams. As noted by Baxter Fawcett, Whiston and Wright.
Tropicals: The key pattern direction for leafy/floral motifs – bold, lilies, palms, multicolour and monotone with brights. As noted at Keelergordon, The Colorfield, Geronimo Studio, Owens & Kim, Baxter Fawcett, Dishes Artworks, Steijn Design.
Yellow: Yellows and golds are strong this season, with Dusseldorf-based Lica Studio‘s Elisa Ostländer telling us that they sold out of yellow-based prints. Also noted at The Colorfield, Freestyle.
Insect/Bird/Animal Geometrics: Popular this season is the use of animals, bird or insects as small repeating motifs to create geometric designs – from a distance the motifs are not obvious. Bi-colour, or three colour designs predominate. As noted at Laetitia Ho, Cosmic Zoo Atelier, La Fabrique Design Textile, Dishes Artworks, Cake Studio.
Florals and Geometrics: a mix of flowers, foliage and geometric elements, as noted by Lica Studio, Petites Histoires, New Age.
Soft Geometrics: Small-scale pretty geometric designs in pastel or greyed tones – a move on from the aztec-inspierrd deigns from last season. As noted by The Colorfield, Surface Print Source.
Vintage Hawaiians: Finely-drawn Hawaiian-influenced florals with conversational elements, often on ecru or pastel grounds, as seen at Laetitia Ho, Garreau Studios, Blue Studio.
Butterflies: a strong conversational trend, in both multi-colour and monotone greys, often incorporating flowers and leaf motifs also. Wing and insect markings also act as new version of skin prints. As noted at Florinda Sandri, The Design Factory, Owens & Kim, Paper & Cloth, Alicia Villodres Studio, Zisser Textile Design, Leti.
Animal Folkloric: the use of folkloric patterns, often taken from embroidery or weaving and adding elements of animal skins or aztec markings, often in brights or sharp pastels to create an overwhelming pattern effect. As noted at Karolina York, Phoenix Design Collection.
Border Stripes: All manner of painterly stripes, plus stripes made up of floral or leaf borders. As noted at The Colorfield, Jack Jones Design, Karolina York, Whiston & Wright.
Overall the mode was positive with good sales. As Laura Lertdarapong from Philadelphia-based Printresh told us: “It was great to see all our European clients! Our strongest sellers were soft romantic florals and whimsical novelties. Everything was very feminine and fun.”
Melissa Wright of Whiston and Wright told us that for them the show was “really buoyant and good. Clients are quite upbeat and look to us for ‘Happy prints!’”
Solstudio from Moscow told us: “The show was perfect. This season was the third time we have participated and we sold 50% of the collection. We are very satisfied with the organisation, the quantity of visitors and the atmosphere. And the strongest sellers? “For us it was Turkey, India, Korea etc.”
Stephané Vernet of Créations Robert Vernet told us: “The show was very good so far, we had more visitors compared to this time last year – we are very happy with the result.” The same comment was noted by Clemmie Rohan of Baxter Fawcett: “Really good, better than last year comparing September to September.”
The Colorfield’s Paul Harding told us: “So far, it has been a very good print season.” A sentiment echoed by James Mountfield of Owens & Kim who noted that “sales were up in the business for this year so far.”
Karolina York told us they had been “very busy!”, while Lyon-based Joana Joubert of Geronimo Studio also did well. “The show was a great success for Geronimo Studio! We had a lot of visits to the booth, even on the 3rd day. Many customers are looking for handmade styles and illustrations, so they really appreciate the different twists in my collection. My strongest sellers were conversational prints and patterns, especially animal themes, above all birds which will be a great trend for spring-summer 2015.”
Buyers came not just for fashion however. French exhibitor Florinda Sandri explained: “The show was good for me especially the first day, when I saw many customers from the whole world: France, Germany, Canada, London, Sweden, Korea, USA. I was approached by a variety of very different companies, from manufacturers of bedlinen and carpets right through to footwear, for women, mens, children and sportswear.”
Peter Westcott of Westcott Designs was excited to promote his new online fashion print studio Vooprint that complements the designs seen at Indigo by showing work that is updated daily. Peter told us the Vooprint slogan: “See it, Buy it, Download it.”
The next edition of Indigo Paris Fashion takes place September 16-18 2014.